Monday, July 6, 2020

From the Garden of Historic Longstreet Farm: Kohlrabi

When you mention kohlrabi, most know little, if anything, about this root vegetable. A member of the brassica family, kohlrabi is closely related to cabbage, kale, turnips, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. Its origins are northern European, and is known to be developed from a wild form of cabbage called marrow cabbage which grows on the English channel coast and on the Spanish peninsula. 

In 1554, botanist Matthiolus wrote the plant had "come lately into Italy" and by the end of the 16th century, kohlrabi was grown in Germany, England, Italy, Spain, Tripoli and the eastern Mediterranean. In the United States, records of kohlrabi aren't noted until the early 1800s.

Kohlrabi is often planted in late spring for harvesting in early summer, or in summer for harvesting before the first frosts of autumn. They are harvested when the bulbous stems are approximately two inches in diameter for a sweeter flesh and more tender leaves. The flesh is similar to that of a turnip, but has a taste more closely related to Brussels sprouts, and the leaves can be eaten as greens. 

Historic Longstreet Farm, Holmdel, is known for recreating the sights and sounds of the 1890s. Check out these traditional techniques and recipes for kohlrabi from the late 19th century in the U.S.: 

(2708). Kohl-Rabies, Housekeeper's Style (Choux Raves a la Menagere).
Cut some medium-sized kohl-rabies in four equal parts, or if very large, then in six or eight; peel and pare them into crescent olive form, obtaining about three pounds in all. Blanch these in boiling salted water, refresh and drain once more. Put six ounces of butter into a sauce-pan and when very hot and cooked to hazel-nut (No. 567) lay in the blanched kohl-rabies and toss them so they do not color; moisten with broth (No. 194a), let cook, reduce to a glaze and when serving dilute with a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409), also adding three ounces of fresh butter, a very small lump at a time.
From "The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art" by Charles Ranhofer. Charles Ranhofer, New York, 1894.

(2709). Kohl-Rabies, Stuffed (Choux Raves Farcis).
Shape them perfectly round and all of uniform size; empty out the insides and stuff them while raw, or else blanch them first in boiling salted water for a few moments; the stuffing consists of godiveau forcemeat (No. 85), having truffles, mushrooms and parsley, all chopped up, mixed in with it; range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404); when done drain and strain the stock, remove all of its fat and reduce it with as much espagnole sauce (No. 414). Lay the kohl-rabies over the sauce and serve. 
From "The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art" by Charles Ranhofer. Charles Ranhofer, New York, 1894.

36. Kohlrabi. 
After washing and peeling, cut them into fine slices or pieces, being careful to remove everything that is tough or hard, and then cook in boiling water until tender. Brown some flour in kidney fat or butter, add either fresh milk or meat broth according to taste, and also nutmeg and salt as desired, in which the kohlrabi is to be stewed. If the kohlrabi is quite young and tender, the small inner leaves are chopped quite fine, cooked in a separate vessel, butter and meat broth stirred through them and then used to garnish a dish of kohlrabi that has been stewed like cauliflowers. If the leaves are not tender enough for this purpose, then sliced sweetbreads or little pork sausages can be used to garnish, or else serve with cutlets, meat balls or steak. 
Time of cooking: 1 1/2 hours.
Remark - The blue kohlrabi is preferable to the white because it is milder and does not become touch so easily as the other kind.
From "Practical Cook Book" by Henriette Davidis. H. H. Zahn & Co. Printers & Publishers, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 1897.

Kohl-Rabi Salad. 
The kohl-rabi, or turnip-rooted cabbage, is used in salads. Boil three of the vegetables slowly twenty-five minutes; remove the outer layers and cut the remainder into slices; put it in a salad-bowl with three sliced potatoes and two spring onions; add one minced pickle, and pour over the salad a plain dressing. Many prefer a bacon-dressing with this salad. The stem being the principal place of deposit of the nutriment in the kohl-rabi, it consequently becomes the edible portion of the plant. The stem just above the surface of the ground swells into a round fleshy bulb, in form not unlike a turnip. 
From "Salads and Sauces" by Thomas J. Murrey. Frederick A. Stokes Company Publishers, New York, 1884.

Historic Longstreet Farm is currently open to the public. We’re operating on our summer schedule from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. through Labor Day. We ask that visitors continue social distancing and strongly recommend face coverings, especially when interacting with staff. We remind visitors that for both your safety and the safety of our animals, touching or feeding the animals is not permitted. We look forward to seeing you at the farm and be sure to take a walk past the garden to see what's currently growing.


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